This beaded stitch is super fun and allows you to give the middle finger to having to use a crochet hook for every bead. It also gives a cabled appearance without needing a cable needle.
Go directly to the written instructions or the chart
You can also get an interactive copy of the chart here on Stitch Fiddle
For an afghan block, use the same number of windows vertically and horizontally (i.e. 3×3) and add stitches to the edges for a border. I added 6 sts on each side, slipping the first stitch of each row to make a nice border, and did two rows of stockingknit before and after the chart/ pattern.
I used:
- US 2, 2.75mm
- big twist: amigurumi in strawberry milk, 2 – fine (18wpi)
- size 8/0 seed beads
- bead threader or needle with scrap thread
Here are some other bead, yarn, and needle combinations that I think would work well
US 8/0 (0.5mm), DMC perle no. 8 or 12, 15/0 seed beads
US 4/0 (1mm), aunt lydias crochet no 10 or DMC perle no. 5, 11/0 seed beads
US 1 (2.25mm), 1 – lace or super fine yarn, size 10/0 seed beads
US 2 (2.75) or US 3 (3.25mm), 2 – fine yarn, size 8/0 seed beads
US 4 (3.5mm), 3 – DK yarn, size 6/0 seed beads (or 2/0 if you can find them)
US 6 (4mm), 4 – worsted yarn, pony beads (the big plastic ones)
KB: kbl, slide bead into space between sts, k with the yarn beyond the bead
terms (click for more):
kbl: knit through the back loop
pbl: purl through the back loop
yo: yarn over
yon: yarn over needle, bring the yarn over the top of the needle from the front to the back (increase)
yfrn: yarn forward, bring the yarn forward over the needle from the back to the front (increase)
inc 1: increase 1 by knitting into the front and back of a stitch
sl,k,psso: slip 1 st purlwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over the previous
k2tog: knit 2 together
k3tog: knit 3 together
k3tog tbl: knit 3 together through the back loop
Threading the beads: either use the bead threader or take a needle, thread it with some scrap thread and tie it into a loop. Put your yarn through the loop then fold it back over itself. Put beads on the needle and slide them down over the thread and onto the yarn.
Each 'window' will need 18 beads.
If you are doing different colors for each window, here is a 3x3 example for the threading order:
Written Pattern
Cast on in groups of 8 + 9 + edge stitches
repeat sts in ** for each window
Row 1 [WS]: p17.
Row 2 [RS]: [(sl, k1, psso), yo]x2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, *[(sl, k1, psso), yo]x2, k2tog, yo, k2tog*, k1.
Row 3 [WS]: p1, *p3, inc 1, p3*, p3, inc 1, p3.
Row 4 [RS]: yo, k3tog tbl, yon, p2, yfrn, k3tog, *yo, k3tog tbl, yon, p2, yfrn, k3tog*, k1.
Row 5 [WS]: inc 1, *p1, kbl, KB2, kbl, p1, inc 1*, p1, kbl, KB2, kbl, p2.
Row 6 [RS]: (sl, k1, psso), yon, pbl4, yfrn, k2tog, *(sl, k1, psso), yon, pbl4, yfrn, k2tog*, k1.
Row 7 [WS]: p1, *p1, kbl, KB4, kbl, p1*, p1, kbl, KB4, kbl, p1.
Row 8 [RS]: k1, pbl6, k1, *k1, pbl6, k1*, k1.
Row 9 [WS]: p1, *p1, KB6, p1*, p1, KB6, p1.
Row 10 [RS]: yo, k2tog, pbl4, (sl, k1, psso), *yo, k2tog, pbl4, (sl, k1, psso)*, k1.
Row 11 [WS]: inc 1, *p1, KB4, p1, inc 1*, p1, KB4, p2.
Row 12 [RS]: k1, yo, k2tog, pbl2, (sl, k1, psso), yo, k1, *k1, yo, k2tog, pbl2, (sl, k1, psso), yo, k1*, k1.
Row 13 [WS]: p1, *p3, KB2, p3*, p3, KB2, p3.
Row 14 [RS]: (yo, k2tog)x2, (sl, k1, psso), yo, (sl, k1, psso), *(yo, k2tog)x2, [(sl, k1, psso), yo]x2*, k1.
Row 15 [WS]: p1, *p7, inc 1*, p7.
Repeat rows 2-15
HINT: before you begin each rs row after a beaded row, double check that your beads are where you want them to be. It’s relatively easy to move them between stitches at this point but once you finish the next row it can be difficult to reposition the beads.
Chart
Next I’m going to try with black yarn or crochet thread and some color or metal-lined seed beads. Or maybe a miniature version with some thread and 15/0 beads with the US8/0 (0.5mm) needles I just got. I think this will really push the stained glass effect. I also might make some more complicated ones; let me know in the comments if you have any suggestions.
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